Exploring: Santiago, Valpo and La Serena; Day 3
Valparaíso!
I think for most of us, this was our favorite day so far on the vacation. It started with a big grocery shop, the preparation of sandwiches and a hustle over to the Terminal Pajaritos. Bus travel takes ~1.5 hours and costs about $5 or 2500clp on the major lines. The highway crosses the coast range and drops down to ocean. Though we've now traveled on the main tollways a fair bit, I am still shocked to see the independent vendors who stand out among the lined up cars selling beef sticks, hard boiled eggs, fruits and such. Though the highway system is very modern, but the road-side vendor industry somehow endures. Though not typically at the tollbooths, the bus drivers will often stop and pick up vendors who wait at pedestrian overpasses with baskets of fresh empanadas, olives or pastries. They hop on, walk the isles, coo a melodic list of their wares, sell a few and then get dropped off at the next pedestrian overpass. I assume that they walk across to the other side of the highway and hop right on another bus. The question is what kind of kick-back the drivers must get for allowing these folks on and off. A free tasty treat?
On arrival at the bus station, the first thing I noticed was how many other tourists there were. Kids with backpacks, families with guidebooks in hand...even in Santiago we had not seen concentrations like this. Strange how this gives me a feeling that is both comforting and sickening. I guess I am simultaneously glad to be in the right place but also turned off by being in a place that caters to my kind. Though the must-see places are amazing, there is another part of me that prefers places that get no tourist attention. I enjoy the auténtico, even if less impressive.
City bus 612 (also labeled as 'O') is the best way to get a feel for the expanse and character of the city. It weaves through all the different hills (cerros) and out to the far end of town before looping back through. Valparaíso is a port city and it has an unapologetic grittiness to it. The bus ride showed an honest cross section of the city's neighborhood and the folks that live there. The views over the city and the roller coaster-like ride is exhilarating. It was also interesting to see that many of the buildings had been previously destroyed either by fire or earthquake but the concrete or masonry facade had survived. Some of these buildings have been rebuilt, often not including the top floors. To our surprise our bus driver was due to go home for lunch with his family and was not returning to the city center. We waited 3 minuets, another 'O' arrived and we were on our way.
While waiting, I was very impressed to see that numerous buses had decals advertising degrees in geology at a local university. It said something like, "Geology is the best option for your life." In Chile, geology is king. It is the undisputed most profitable profession for students graduating from university. Mining is king and there are even television shows that focus on mines throughout the country.
True to our Chilean roots, we hopped off at Cerro Concepcion and wandered for hours through narrow cobble streets tracing between colorful, eclectic homes. This and Cerro Alegre (next door) are the most popular hills and are the reason this place is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are numerous miradors to linger on (public balconies that overlook the city) and great murals all over the place. Artsy and edgy while maintaining a dignified air, the Cerros were super fun to explore. We rode on ascensor (Concepcion, of course) and I was shocked at how steep, fast and old fashion it was. We ate dinner at Mastodonte and were glad for the kitsch atmosphere with strange plaster mounts of sabertooth tigers and such. Big food, low price. Just right. After a little parkour and the inspection of a dead, partially eaten dog we rode one of the 1950's Swiss electric trolleys back to the Valpo bus station. I slept all the way back to Santiago.
I think for most of us, this was our favorite day so far on the vacation. It started with a big grocery shop, the preparation of sandwiches and a hustle over to the Terminal Pajaritos. Bus travel takes ~1.5 hours and costs about $5 or 2500clp on the major lines. The highway crosses the coast range and drops down to ocean. Though we've now traveled on the main tollways a fair bit, I am still shocked to see the independent vendors who stand out among the lined up cars selling beef sticks, hard boiled eggs, fruits and such. Though the highway system is very modern, but the road-side vendor industry somehow endures. Though not typically at the tollbooths, the bus drivers will often stop and pick up vendors who wait at pedestrian overpasses with baskets of fresh empanadas, olives or pastries. They hop on, walk the isles, coo a melodic list of their wares, sell a few and then get dropped off at the next pedestrian overpass. I assume that they walk across to the other side of the highway and hop right on another bus. The question is what kind of kick-back the drivers must get for allowing these folks on and off. A free tasty treat?
On arrival at the bus station, the first thing I noticed was how many other tourists there were. Kids with backpacks, families with guidebooks in hand...even in Santiago we had not seen concentrations like this. Strange how this gives me a feeling that is both comforting and sickening. I guess I am simultaneously glad to be in the right place but also turned off by being in a place that caters to my kind. Though the must-see places are amazing, there is another part of me that prefers places that get no tourist attention. I enjoy the auténtico, even if less impressive.
City bus 612 (also labeled as 'O') is the best way to get a feel for the expanse and character of the city. It weaves through all the different hills (cerros) and out to the far end of town before looping back through. Valparaíso is a port city and it has an unapologetic grittiness to it. The bus ride showed an honest cross section of the city's neighborhood and the folks that live there. The views over the city and the roller coaster-like ride is exhilarating. It was also interesting to see that many of the buildings had been previously destroyed either by fire or earthquake but the concrete or masonry facade had survived. Some of these buildings have been rebuilt, often not including the top floors. To our surprise our bus driver was due to go home for lunch with his family and was not returning to the city center. We waited 3 minuets, another 'O' arrived and we were on our way.
While waiting, I was very impressed to see that numerous buses had decals advertising degrees in geology at a local university. It said something like, "Geology is the best option for your life." In Chile, geology is king. It is the undisputed most profitable profession for students graduating from university. Mining is king and there are even television shows that focus on mines throughout the country.
True to our Chilean roots, we hopped off at Cerro Concepcion and wandered for hours through narrow cobble streets tracing between colorful, eclectic homes. This and Cerro Alegre (next door) are the most popular hills and are the reason this place is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are numerous miradors to linger on (public balconies that overlook the city) and great murals all over the place. Artsy and edgy while maintaining a dignified air, the Cerros were super fun to explore. We rode on ascensor (Concepcion, of course) and I was shocked at how steep, fast and old fashion it was. We ate dinner at Mastodonte and were glad for the kitsch atmosphere with strange plaster mounts of sabertooth tigers and such. Big food, low price. Just right. After a little parkour and the inspection of a dead, partially eaten dog we rode one of the 1950's Swiss electric trolleys back to the Valpo bus station. I slept all the way back to Santiago.
A beautifully restored museum...but closed the one day of the week we were in town.
